St. John Spring 2024 – WWD

St. John’s new suit consists of flowing white viscose trousers and a white scoop-neck tank top. And let’s face it, this is what you need when it’s 35 degrees in the shade in Manhattan in September.

It was the spring collection’s hero piece, representing another fusion of the sensibilities of St. John designer Enrico Chiarparin, a veteran of Calvin Klein and Miu Miu, among others, and the brand’s creative director, Hollywood stylist and tomboy icon Karla Welch.

They continued to explore the 1960s Palm Springs glamor they had begun for fall but mixed it with more ’90s ease and subtle nods to Western Americana, from the origami folded mules to western heels to the crystal rim at the pointy collar of a black button down shirt paired with cigarette pants for the “woman in black”.

The silhouette was mostly long and slim, with form-fitting crochet tank dresses, cardigan jackets and mini-dresses contrasting with tailored, fitted shift dresses and culottes, lightweight unlined blazers and trench coats.

“We’re trying to be lighter and non-seasonal,” Chiaparin said of innovations in fabrics and yarns.

The simple evening wear featured a white, shimmering, transparent sequined slip dress with a leotard worked into the lining, as well as a sleeveless black dress by Watteau with crystal embellishments on the back.

Welch added, “And if we didn’t go on strike now, I would be giving away all these clothes.”